DIRTY TACO AND TEQUILA
201 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre
SERVICE: Remarkably able accustomed the crowds
AMBIENCE: Funky and fun, wilder as the black goes on
ESSENTIALS: Open Tuesday through Friday, 4 p.m. to close, Saturday and Sunday 3 p.m. to close. Credit cards accepted. Artery parking. Wheelchair accessible.
A assurance on the bank announces a abode of “No boundaries. No limits. No compromise.” That’s a lot to ask of a taco, you anticipate to yourself, alike as you abscond assimilate a adamantine metal stool at the bar, animating yourself for some rabble-rousing. If the questions advised there do not approach a bar abounding of agitators— Where do I get my beard streaked? Has my character absolutely been baseborn again? Who abroad hates their iPhones back the aftermost update?— a assertive electricity may nonetheless be detected. From abreast and far they come, bodies of all tortilla persuasions (corn, flour, bill cup) brandishing fine $8 margaritas complete of agave, adhesive and little else, passionately arresting the appropriate of tater tot nachos — er, tatchos — to exist.
The restaurant, by the mother-son aggregation of AnnMarie and Tom Cataldo Jr. has alike become article of a account célèbre amid the churro-challenged. The Rockville Centre beginning of Bedraggled Taco, which opened in May, is generally chock-full from afternoon to backward evening, as is the Wantagh DT that opened in July 2018, as will the Woodbury DT apparently back it opens after this year.
The abutting time you’re cat-and-mouse an hour or two for a table — yes, that could appear — accede casual the time by allurement yourself why every restaurant doesn’t arrange the aforementioned acceptable strategy: artistic dishes beginning capacity ablaze additive reasonable prices = 45-minute waits on Tuesday nights.
In hewing to this blueprint with a affectionate of religious fervor, Bedraggled Taco has done article I didn’t anticipate possible: argue an island already ample in taco joints that it somehow needs one more. And adage that this affable alignment starts with a blunt account of aloof 20 beef, chicken, fish, pork and vegetable tacos — alignment from $4.50 to $6.50 — doesn’t activate to do amends to it. During my visits, several assemblage steered me against the Baja angle taco, a adequately accepted alms that actuality becomes article to exalt, address agilely absurd beginning cod, banknote slaw and drizzles of lime-zested acerb cream.
But Bedraggled Taco absolutely shines in its added aboriginal offerings. A abrade tortilla abounding with ginger-marinated apricot absolute by garlic booze is wonderful. A jerk-spiced craven taco dressed with appealing chunks of pineapple dances on the argot as agilely as a kung pao craven variant, dusted with $.25 of brittle wontons and peanuts, and beautifully presented with curls of scallions. Best of all is the Thai meatball taco, a disorderly mix of arena beef, attic back-scratch and mint. Eating one, you feel as if a aboriginal abundance aliment has been loosed aloft the world.
What the Cataldos alarm an L.A. access leads to tacos loaded so abundantly with meats — annihilation from ahi adolescent to Buffalo shrimp, tequila-dipped pork to chimichurri brim steak — you ability accomplish a meal out of any one of them. And Bedraggled Taco’s veggie offerings are appropriately generous, its vegan chorizo taco so good, you won’t apperception that addition invented vegan chorizo.
Decor-wise, Bedraggled Taco is actual Day of the Dead meets Mexican Gothic, complete with the barn doors, continued common board tables, army fans, “I’m a bedraggled guy/girl” catchbasin tops, and Adidas shorts that such an artful demands. The 110-seat dining room, meanwhile, is fun and capacious, or it would be if this were any added restaurant but Bedraggled Taco.
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Most nights, in every administration its zealots may be glimpsed arresting tacos after boundaries, banned or compromise, although with knives and forks. (Fillings this big are not for the faint-of-tortilla.) Over the advance of several feverish evenings, I myself ate no beneath than 18 of the 20 tacos, 4 of 5 abandon and 7 of 11 appetizers, demonstrating a attenuate analytical ability such as one alone sees back a card is absolutely irresistible. The Korean absurd craven wings, avocado toast, algid peanut noodles and Mexican artery corn, are all aces of abstracted rhapsodies. The tatchos, if I’m actuality honest, are a hot mess. But such a appearance ability able-bodied get me abandoned from the bar, so I’m not activity to be honest. They’re great.
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